# Task – Ride The Waves

Task – Ride The Waves

1. Which of the following is true of swell?
• found in the area of the wind that generated it found far away from wind that generated it caused by wind
• caused by earthquakes presents as multiple wave trains
• single wave train
2. Which of these are restoring forces.
• gravitational forces between Earth and Moon
• Earth’s gravity earthquakes
• landslides
• surface tension
• wind
3. Which of the following are possible generating force(s) for waves.
• gravitational forces between Earth and Moon |
• Earth’s gravity
• earthquakes
• landslides
• surface tension
• wind
4. Which of these forces restores a capillary wave.
• gravitational forces between Earth and Moon
• Earth’s gravity earthquakes
• landslides
• surface tension
• wind
5. Which of these forces generates a capillary wave.
• gravitational forces between Earth and Moon
• Earth’s gravity earthquakes
• landslides
• surface tension
• wind
6. Which of the following is true of an internal wave?
• Found at surface
• Found along pycnoclines
• Found along seafloor
7. Using Figure 1, label crest, trough, equilibrium surface, height, and wavelength.

Figure 1.
Parts of a wave.

8. What are the number of wavelengths shown in the image above?
9. Which of the following would be considered a standing wave?
• Tsunami
• Swell
• Chop
• Seiche
• Tides
10. Which of the following would be considered a progressive wave?
• Tsunami
• Swell
• Chop
• Seiche
• Tides
11. Give equation for wave base and describe how it is measured.
12. If a wave has a wave length of 30 m, what is the wave base depth?
13. If 4 wave lengths pass a point in 2 minutes, what is the wave period?
14. How fast do tsunami travel?
15. What’s the average period of a tsunami?
16. What’s the average wavelength of a tsunami?
17. With a period of 10 seconds and a wavelength of 50 m, what is the wave speed?
18. What happens to wave speed after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
19. What happens to wave height after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
20. What happens to wave length after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
21. What happens to wave period after a wave feels bottom and approaches shore?
22. At what ocean depths is a 30-m wave length wave considered a deep water wave?
23. At what ocean depths is a 30-m wave length wave considered NOT a deep water wave?
24. Which types of waves have the potential to have the largest height?
25. Which of the following would be considered a deep-water wave in the open ocean?
• Tsunami
• Swell
• Chop
• Seiche in Pool/Lagoon/Bay
26. Which of the following will increase wind wave height in the open ocean?
• Strong winds
• Moderate winds
• Weak winds
27. As a result, where in the world’s oceans do we get the largest open ocean wind waves? Why?
28. What type of interference causes rogue waves?
• constructive
• destructive
29. Which direction does a rip current move? (Hint: time to do some outside research):
• along the shore
• towards the shore
• away from the shore
30. What causes rip currents?
• jetty
• two longshore currents colliding
• wave direction
31. Can they be predicted? Explain.
32. Which direction does a longshorecurrentmove?
• along the shore
• towards the shore
• away from the shore
33. What cause(s) longshore currents?
• jetty
• two longshore currents colliding
• wave direction
34. Which of the following is true for tsunami (pick all that apply):
• deep-water wave
• shallow-water wave
• produced by earthquakes
• produced by landslides
• produced by strong winds
• considered a rogue (episodic) wave
• considered a standing wave
• considered a progressive wave
35. What’s the average height of a tsunami in the open ocean?
36. Are tsunami dangerous in the open sea? What happens when they reach shore?
37. Which types of waves have the smallest wavelength, height, and period? (Check the Log Book)
38. Which types of waves have the largest wavelength? (Check the Log Book)
39. Which types of waves have the longest period? (Check the Log Book)
40. Where is your Pirate Ship headed? (Check the Chapter 2 introduction). What are the coordinates of the landmark?

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